• Home
  • About
  • Listed Climbs
Menu

Jeff Hebert

  • Home
  • About
  • Listed Climbs

Squak Glacier on Mount Baker

June 25, 2022

After all these years in the Pacific Northwest and nearly 10 summits of Mount Baker, I had never been up its South side. I had no idea what I’d been missing.

Kelsey and I decided to sleep in our on beds, waking up early Saturday morning to leave town by about 4:30am. The drive was smooth other than the massive potholes on the forest road and we left the car where we had to park about a half mile below the trailhead due to snow and other cars at 6:45am. We followed the old road for a few switchbacks and then headed up through the woods, eventually meeting the trail. This section was mostly snow, but had some dry sections we had to boot. Before too long, we were in open trees and skinning our way efficiently to more open terrain at 4,600 feet.

We were generally moving pretty quickly and got to 5,900 feet where a number of tents had been set up the night before in about 2 hours 25 minutes from the car. From here, it was smooth sailing up the glacier, following a light skin track and a huge number of footprints. A bunch of large, roped parties were walking down by this point, but the snow was thankfully still relatively firm. Soft enough to skin well, but it seemed like it would stay as corn for us on the way down.

The views from this side of the mountain are really awesome—much better than from the standard Coleman-Deming route with the Twin Sisters nearby as well as a panoramic view of the Cascades from Shuksan through The Pickets, and across all the way to Glacier and Rainier.

We kept cruising at a pretty good clip, passing a handful of parties as we went and saying hello. At the edge of the summit crater, we switched to booting since it steepened up a bit and there was a massive boot pack set in already. We never roped up and didn’t need crampons either since the snow was soft. 5 hours and 20 minutes after leaving the car, I was standing on top of Baker, enjoying its stellar views. I met Kelsey at the top of the Roman Wall and, after a quick snack, we started down.

My, oh my. From the top of the Roman Wall until about 7,500 feet was, hands-down, the best corn run of my life. Perfectly smooth with just a couple inches of buttery corn on top, it skied like a dream. We stopped a few times to look at each other in disbelief and whoop.

Things got heavy again, especially for my tiny 176 x 78 under foot skis, from 7,500 feet down a couple thousand feet. We stopped for a half hour at a rock outcropping to take out boots off, soak in the sun, and eat some more food. Below here, especially as we re-entered the trees, the skiing got pretty good again. We video-gamed our way down from here, slalom turning around trees and in stream gullies, eventually making it to the car just under 8 hours after we’d left at 2:45pm.

Many Cascade mountaineering adventures have enough Type-2 fun that you’re glad you did it, but don’t really want to do it again. With this one, I’d go back for sure.

In Climbing, Skiing
← Tahoma Glacier on Mount RainierBow-Yoho Traverse →

Recent Trip Reports

Featured
IMG_1725.jpeg
Aug 22, 2025
West McMillan Spire Car to Car
Aug 22, 2025
Aug 22, 2025
IMG_1244.jpeg
Jul 23, 2025
Via Ferrata Ferrari at Ra Bujela
Jul 23, 2025
Jul 23, 2025
IMG_1208.jpeg
Jul 22, 2025
Dolomiti Vertfest
Jul 22, 2025
Jul 22, 2025
IMG_1047.jpeg
Jul 19, 2025
Via Ferrata Tomaselli to Punta Fanes
Jul 19, 2025
Jul 19, 2025
IMG_1014.jpeg
Jul 18, 2025
Via Ferrata Bianchi to Cristallo Mezzo
Jul 18, 2025
Jul 18, 2025
IMG_5941.jpeg
Jul 15, 2025
Lake Sorapis & Via Ferrata Alfonso Vandelli
Jul 15, 2025
Jul 15, 2025
IMG_0740 (1).jpeg
Jul 14, 2025
Ra Gusela and Averau Vie Ferrate
Jul 14, 2025
Jul 14, 2025
IMG_0715.jpeg
Jul 11, 2025
Sci Club 18 Via Ferrata
Jul 11, 2025
Jul 11, 2025
IMG_0634 (1).jpeg
Jul 10, 2025
Punta Anna and Tofana di Mezzo Via Ferrata
Jul 10, 2025
Jul 10, 2025
IMG_0544.jpeg
Jul 9, 2025
Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel
Jul 9, 2025
Jul 9, 2025
IMG_0309.jpeg
Jul 3, 2025
Tridentina al Pisciadù Via Ferrata
Jul 3, 2025
Jul 3, 2025
IMG_0252.jpeg
Jun 30, 2025
Sellaronda
Jun 30, 2025
Jun 30, 2025
IMG_0210.jpeg
Jun 28, 2025
Sass Rigais Via Ferrata
Jun 28, 2025
Jun 28, 2025
IMG_9843.jpeg
Jun 19, 2025
Giro d'Langhe
Jun 19, 2025
Jun 19, 2025
IMG_9781.jpeg
Jun 17, 2025
Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse
Jun 17, 2025
Jun 17, 2025
IMG_9534.jpeg
Jun 9, 2025
Midi-Plan Traverse
Jun 9, 2025
Jun 9, 2025
IMG_9162.jpg
May 31, 2025
Mallory-Porter on Aiguille du Midi
May 31, 2025
May 31, 2025
ventoux.jpg
May 18, 2025
Mont Ventoux
May 18, 2025
May 18, 2025
IMG_6830.jpeg
Sep 21, 2024
South Face on Aiguille du Moine
Sep 21, 2024
Sep 21, 2024
IMG_6771.jpeg
Sep 19, 2024
Barbaresco to Barolo
Sep 19, 2024
Sep 19, 2024
IMG_3321.jpeg
Sep 15, 2024
Cosmiques Arete on Aiguille du Midi
Sep 15, 2024
Sep 15, 2024
IMG_5955.jpeg
Jul 27, 2024
Rainier Vertfest
Jul 27, 2024
Jul 27, 2024
IMG_5609.jpeg
Jul 13, 2024
Mary Green Glacier on Bonanza Peak
Jul 13, 2024
Jul 13, 2024
IMG_4891.jpeg
Apr 13, 2024
Chair Peak Circumnav CCW
Apr 13, 2024
Apr 13, 2024
IMG_8600.jpeg
Dec 14, 2023
Mount Aspiring NW Ridge
Dec 14, 2023
Dec 14, 2023
IMG_2329.jpeg
Jul 16, 2023
West Ridge on Mount Thomson
Jul 16, 2023
Jul 16, 2023
IMG_1974.jpeg
May 28, 2023
South Ridge on Mount Jefferson
May 28, 2023
May 28, 2023
IMG_1736.jpeg
May 13, 2023
Little Tahoma via Paradise
May 13, 2023
May 13, 2023
IMG_3023.jpeg
Mar 18, 2023
Nisqually Chute on Mount Rainier
Mar 18, 2023
Mar 18, 2023
IMG_9312.jpeg
Feb 12, 2023
The Slot Couloir on Snoqualmie Mountain
Feb 12, 2023
Feb 12, 2023

© 2020 Jeffrey J. Hebert