Paisano Pinnacle to Burgundy Spire

Descending across the high ledge

Descending across the high ledge

From Cutthroat and on our drive down to Mazama on Saturday, the Wine Spires looked mostly snow-free and awesome. We didn't make our final call on a route for Sunday until the morning, which meant we didn't get the earliest start. After a stop at the Mazama Store, we drove up to the pullout and left the car at about 9:15am.

After a little route finding on the other side of the river, we quickly gained elevation on the steep trail, arriving at the camping area in a little over an hour. We hit patchy snow here and were on and off of it a bunch as we headed up the steep gully toward the start of the West Ridge on Paisano Pinnacle. A little bit of loose rock and then a steep snow traverse got us to the notch at the start of the route at about 11:45am.

The Liberty Bell group on our hike out

The Liberty Bell group on our hike out

The climbing was pretty moderate for the most part and we stayed in approach shoes while simul-climbing until a nice ledge below a steeper set of cracks. We belayed this and the final pitch while climbing in our rock shoes. The movement and position were great.

After a snack on the summit of Paisano Pinnacle at 2:45pm, we scampered down to the sandy ledge on the North Face of Burgundy spire and headed up the face. What fun face climbing on flakes and edges! A brief traverse right led us to the last pitch or so, which we simul-climbed, arriving at the summit at about 5:30pm. Knowing that we'd started late and had a long ways to go, we started rapping soon thereafter. We had one rope pull get stuck a few moves above the belay, but things went well otherwise and we made it back to the car at 9pm.