Paisano Pinnacle to Burgundy Spire

Descending across the high ledge

From Cutthroat and on our drive down to Mazama on Saturday, the Wine Spires looked mostly snow-free and awesome. We didn't make our final call on a route for Sunday until the morning, which meant we didn't get the earliest start. After a stop at the Mazama Store, we drove up to the pullout and left the car at about 9:15am.

After a little route finding on the other side of the river, we quickly gained elevation on the steep trail, arriving at the camping area in a little over an hour. We hit patchy snow here and were on and off of it a bunch as we headed up the steep gully toward the start of the West Ridge on Paisano Pinnacle. A little bit of loose rock and then a steep snow traverse got us to the notch at the start of the route at about 11:45am.

The Liberty Bell group on our hike out

The climbing was pretty moderate for the most part and we stayed in approach shoes while simul-climbing until a nice ledge below a steeper set of cracks. We belayed this and the final pitch while climbing in our rock shoes. The movement and position were great.

After a snack on the summit of Paisano Pinnacle at 2:45pm, we scampered down to the sandy ledge on the North Face of Burgundy spire and headed up the face. What fun face climbing on flakes and edges! A brief traverse right led us to the last pitch or so, which we simul-climbed, arriving at the summit at about 5:30pm. Knowing that we'd started late and had a long ways to go, we started rapping soon thereafter. We had one rope pull get stuck a few moves above the belay, but things went well otherwise and we made it back to the car at 9pm.