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Jeff Hebert

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Dale starting Lovin' Arms

Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms Linkup

June 12, 2016

If you haven't read it, Blake Harrington's overview of this route in Climbing Magazine is excellent.

This classic Index linkup had been on my list for some time and, with Dale in town and an iffy forecast for the alpine, we decided it'd be a great way to spend a Sunday. I'd never been to the Upper Town Wall before and really liked the position up there with a great view of the town of Index as well as the river valley and Mount Index itself, which came in and out of the clouds during the day.

The first pitch was a bit wet and insecure, but not terrible. My partially-torn scapholunate ligament from last summer still isn't 100%, so I tried to keep the weight on my feet and not push it. Pitch 2 was probably the highlight—lots of fun movement in the corner and placement after placement of green C4s. The wrist held up, so we continued on through more fun, varied climbing around the roof and through the dihedral. What a fun series of pitches!

On top of Davis-Holland, we stepped right into the left-leaning hand crack of Lovin' Arms, which felt like some of the hardest moves one the climb to me. After a little ways, things eased up a bit and then got into a really fun, blocky chimney. We followed the chimney up on the next pitch and then down to the right on the ramp before exiting up and right on fun rails. We finished the last pitch up and right, which turned out to be pretty thin face climbing, but tons of fun. No throw-away pitches at all and a really fun way to spend the day with Dale.

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