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Jeff Hebert

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Whitehorse Mountain via Snow Gulch

March 21, 2020

Ah, Whitehorse. The scene of two prior, ill-fated attempts. The first in April of 2018 with Dale resulted in a Jane Fonda “Total Body Workout” bushwhack up the East side of the drainage only to decide that it was far too warm to be safe on the exposed, rollover slopes which had recently shed some huge wet slides, resulting in troughs over 30 feet across. The second two weeks ago when we received more snow than forecast and, after ‘schwacking up the slightly better ridge on the West of the main creek, we bailed due to snow stability at 2,600 feet.

This time had all the stars align. We’d experienced a week of high pressure the week prior, our only snow stability issue was wet slides and the temperatures weren’t supposed to be high, we knew the better bushwhack route, and it was forecast to be a perfect, bluebird day. To get an early start, we drove out on Friday night, arriving at the trailhead alone and crashing in the car. We woke up at 4am and left the car just after 4:30, right after a group of 4 who had arrived in the early morning.

We passed them on the trail and said a quick hello before continuing on in the darkness. The bushwhack went quite well on the way up—really not that bad compared to more unsavory Pacific Northwest ‘schwacks, like getting into the Northern Pickets. At the edge of the forest at about 2,000 feet, we dropped our trail runners and began walking up in our ski boots. We stayed in boots with crampons over the ridge at 2,700 feet and decided it would be most efficient to keep walking all the way until 3,600 feet where the snow became much more soft and it made sense to skin.

Coming up the rollover

The skin was quite pleasant for the most part, except for a few sections of harder wind slab. It felt good to be outside on a breathless, blue-sky day and out of the house. The cirque provided an awesome ambiance, with steep rock walls plastered with rime and a view to the North of Baker and Shuksan. At 5,500 feet, we switched back to boots to go up the rollover headwall, which went quite easily, thanks to an existing boot pack. We decided it wasn’t worth transitioning again before the top and walked up to the summit ridge at 6,700 feet.

The last bit to the summit was a bit steeper than I’d expected at the top, but the runout wasn’t bad in case one were to fall. We each headed up solo with a whippet in one hand and an axe in the other. After a couple body lengths of steep, icier snow, we pulled into the sunshine on the summit just shy of noon. The view was awesome, especially of nearby Three Fingers.

We soaked it in for a few minutes before down climbing, which wasn’t too bad after kicking in steps on the way up, and descending to our skis for lunch. After we descended, the party of four headed up to the top and another party of two was just arriving at the final ridge—I didn’t expect this route to be so popular!

After lunch, we began our ski journey. We encountered breakable wind crust up high, side slipping over the rollover, some decent buttery snow in the middle, and sloppier snow with an icy crust near the bottom. At the very end, we decided it was better to save our knees and just plunge step the last couple hundred feet. With some bourbon to dull our senses a bit, we crashed back down the forest and slide alder to the trail and hoofed it out to the car for right around a 12-hour day. We knew exactly where to go and were pretty fast throughout the day, so it’s unfathomable why the ski tour book expects only 7-9 hours for this. Even with avy debris to skin and no bushwhack, that seems really fast.

Having slain this white wale, I can move on emotionally and look up with a little sense of accomplishment and pride every time I drive through Darrington. Whew.

In Climbing, Skiing
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Corkscrew Route on Sloan Peak

July 28, 2019

From Dome Peak last weekend, Sloan stood out on the horizon with its distinctive, matterhorn-esque shape. Erica and I were able to spare one day this weekend for an adventure and decided to brave an early wakeup in Seattle on Sunday to car-to-car the route. Most beta we could find suggested at least 11-12 hours, if not longer, so we got rolling by 4:30am from Seattle, made good time on the Mountain Loop Highway, and left the car at about 1,900 feet just after 6:30am. We opted for the Cougar Creek approach, hoping that the river crossings near the start would be relatively civilized at this time of year.

After working our way through the brushy trail from the car, we quickly hit the first river crossing. A bit of searching upstream found a great set of logs to cross. From there, we battled some brush and made a couple more crossings, finding faint trails at times, but generally using our topo and GPS to head in the right direction. After the last crossing, on a large, sandy, dry stream bed, we remembered the beta suggesting a departure from the old trail, heading upstream a ways before ducking into the forest.

From there, the trail was faint at first, but became more and more established. We went sharply uphill, switching back quite a bit until reaching an awesome waterfall where we crossed the creek and continued up. At 9am, after about 2.5 hours, including some brushy sections that were a bit hard to follow at times, we made it to open views at 5,000 feet. We’d been cruising to this point and made the wise decision to sit down and eat our snack of salami and cheddar before continuing up.

After following the trail up the ridge, we followed up on scree and slabs to the saddle at 5,800 feet, neglecting to read the beta suggesting that the summer route continues up the grassy ridge. In either case, it was a direct approach and went quickly, allowing us to make the saddle just before 10am. At the saddle we headed through and turned right, following more slabs up to a pretty high access point on the glacier. A party of four had just descended the glacier and were taking their crampons off as we arrived and put ours on. It sounded like everything was in good shape.

We headed up the glacier with our gear and light rope on, following a nice boot pack around some crevasses and eventually traversing to bare rock at the Southeast edge of the summit block at about 11:15am. We left our technical gear and poles here, then continued up on the classic climber’s path for the summit. There were a few fun sections requiring hands, but it always felt comfortable as 3rd/4th class. We made it to the top a few minutes before noon and took in the crystal-clear views over lunch.

Not much to say about the descent, save that we went down the snow as far as it would take us on the glacier and made one magical stop at the waterfall to dunk our feet. We were back at the car just after 4:15pm for about 9h 45m on the day, which gave us the time to drive home via Darrington and milkshakes.

In Climbing
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Dome Peak from Itswoot Ridge

Dome Glacier on Dome Peak

July 20, 2019

Dome Peak has been lurking on my list for a long time. I expected to get back there at some point on a Ptarmigan Traverse, but things lined up to head back there with Colin as a two-day weekend mission. We were both interested in going somewhere beautiful, fast and light.

We drove up on Friday night and spent the night at the Downey Creek Trailhead in the car. With a 5am wakeup, we were on the move by 6am Saturday morning. We made it to the 6.5-mile first turn in 2 hours, then cruised up the valley, cutting into an overgrown area at about 4,000 feet and crossing Bachelor Creek into a long section of brushy trail that felt like bushwhacking at times. This area collected dew and made us really wet, soaking our pants, socks, and shoes in particular.

 

Cub Lake and Glacier Peak

Things improved from about 4,800 feet on and eventually entered a gorgeous area at Cub Lake, with views South to Glacier Peak, at about 11:45am. We climbed up Itswoot Ridge at 6,300 feet and got our first full view of Dome Peak at 1:15pm. The traverse from there went pretty quickly. We were able to stay on the left margin of some snow to gain elevation and didn’t put our crampons on until we were at 7,200 feet or so. We made it to the saddle at 4:30pm and dropped our overnight gear there.

After a quick break at camp, we headed up more untouched snow to the summit at 5:30pm. It was a great view from such a central location in the North Cascades. We took it in for a while, scouted out Sinister a bit, and decided that, without a rope, it didn’t make sense to drop down and try to do Sinister as well. So we headed down to camp, ate dinner, and got in bed well before sunset.

 

Looking at Eldorado, Forbidden, Sahale, Boston, Buckner, Logan, and Goode

Taking in the summit view

Descending from the top with Gunsight and Bonanza behind

While it was a nice and calm evening, the wind kicked up fiercely around midnight and made for some pretty challenging sleeping conditions. Colin got a hole in his pad (potentially from a snafflehound chomp), so he was in an especially tough spot. We decided to get up at 4:30am and start our trek back out. Everything went smoothly enough and we were back at the car by 2:30pm. The GPS suggested it was about 31 miles and 8,400 vertical on the weekend.

Leaving in the early morning

‘Schwacking Back Out

In Climbing
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