Stanley-Burgner on Prusik Peak

Dale on the first pitch

After climbing the Serpentine Arete on Dragontail Peak the day before and spending a beautiful, but pretty restless night due to mosquitoes and mountain goats on the summit of Dragontail, Eben, Dale, and I got a leisurely start on Sunday to hike over to Prusik and get on the Stanley-Burgner Route. The approach was hot and we enjoyed rehydrating as much as possible at the icy stream crossings.

We started the climb at about 10am with the left-hand 5.8 variation, which was quite fun. We linked the first two pitches and then the next two as well, which quickly got us up near the chockstone. One short pitch with the chockstone squeeze and we were under the crux flaring squeeze chimney. Lots of words in that description don't overlap with my climbing skill set very well, so it was a bit awkward, but it went. Dale put in a stellar lead.

Above the crux was a quick jaunt right to a good ledge where we belayed Eben as he took on the final corner crack system. While this pitch got the 5.9+ rating, it was nowhere near as physical as the chimney. We high-fived and took in the summit view for a few moments at about 2:30pm before rapping down the North Face and beginning our long hike back out.

The mosquitoes were pretty nasty, but were mostly kept at bay by continually moving, which was a good approach, given our late start to the day. We made it back to the car before dark and even made it into Leavenworth with enough time to celebrate a successful weekend with a pitcher of beer and some sausages. Solid.

Eben on the final pitch